The Difference Between AHA and BHA Exfoliants

Understanding Exfoliants

Exfoliation is an important part of any skincare routine. It removes dead skin cells from the surface of the skin, allowing for better absorption of products, a glowier complexion, and smoother skin texture. There are two main types of exfoliants: AHAs and BHAs. Understanding the difference between these chemical exfoliants is key to choosing the right one for your skin type and concerns.

What are AHAs?

AHAs, or alpha hydroxy acids, are water-soluble acids that work on the skin’s surface. Common AHAs include glycolic acid, lactic acid, mandelic acid, and citric acid. AHAs help to dissolve the bonds between dead skin cells, allowing them to detach and be removed. This reveals the fresh, radiant skin underneath. AHAs are best suited to targeting concerns like:

Fine lines and wrinkles
Dull, uneven skin tone
Congested pores
Sun damage

What are BHAs?

BHAs, or beta hydroxy acids, are oil-soluble acids that are able to penetrate deeper into pores. The most common BHA is salicylic acid. Because BHAs can dissolve inside pores, they are effective at clearing buildup, debris, and sebum that can lead to acne and clogged pores. BHAs help to:

Minimize pores
Treat and prevent breakouts
Improve texture and tone
Soothe redness and inflammation

How to Choose Between AHAs and BHAs

When deciding whether an AHA or BHA is better for your skin, consider your skin type and what skin concerns you are trying to target. Here are some general guidelines:

Oily, acne-prone skin would benefit more from BHAs to keep pores clear.
Dry, sensitive skin tends to tolerate AHAs better than the stronger BHAs.
Dullness, uneven texture, and fine lines respond better to gentle AHAs.
Skin experiencing clogged pores or breakouts will see better results with BHA.

How to Use AHAs vs. BHAs

Start slowly when first using any chemical exfoliant. Begin by applying it once or twice a week and gradually increase frequency based on your skin’s tolerance. AHAs and BHAs may cause temporary redness, dryness, or peeling for some skin types.

When using a leave-on exfoliant, apply it after cleansing on bare skin before applying other products. Always follow with SPF during the day since chemical exfoliants can make skin more sun-sensitive.

Look for formulas that combine AHA and BHA, giving you complexion-improving and pore-clearing benefits in one product.

FAQ

What percentage of AHA or BHA is best?

Start with 5-8% for AHAs and 0.5-2% for BHAs, then gradually increase to 10-15% AHAs and 2-4% BHAs based on your tolerance.

How often should I exfoliate?

Limit exfoliation to 2-3 times per week, allowing your skin time to recover in between. Over-exfoliating can damage your skin’s moisture barrier.

Can I use AHA and BHA together?

You can alternate them by day or time of day based on your skin’s sensitivity. Some brands offer combined AHA/BHA formulas designed to work well when used together.

How do I know if a product is working?

After 6-8 weeks of consistent use, your skin should show signs of improvement like enhanced radiance, fewer clogged pores or breakouts, smoother texture, and faded dark spots or fine lines.

Are chemical exfoliants safe for all skin types?

AHAs and BHAs may irritate very sensitive skin. Discontinue use if you experience ongoing redness, dryness, or peeling. Consult a dermatologist if you have specific skin concerns.